The SOE art festival is organised by a group of people consisting of mostly a KK collective called Kultx, helmed by Manaporn Robroo (aka Tum) and his mate, Wit. Tum is an artist who also runs at least one art gallery in the city. Wit is an artist and part-time teacher. Some time during the covid 19 pandemic a friend of Tum’s who is an academic based in Bangkok, Professor X (whom I did not get to meet – or maybe I did but I was not aware of it) proposed that they should organise an art festival in Khon Kaen, which they did in 2021. It was a small event consisting of friends – Thai artists from KK, Chiang Mai and Bangkok. Then in 2022 they decided to organise a second event but due to circumtances that I am still not quite clear about, it had to be postponed to March 2023. For this year’s event, they managed to secure some fundings from the government and a successful art foundation / gallery (Maielie). I first heard about the SOE23 in December 2022 via a Malaysian artist who is part of their circle. I decided to join it because I thought it was a good chance for me to learn something new. I had no idea what was in store for me; and that it would be a life-changing experience.
First off, almost all the artists were young and able-bodied women and men below the age of 40. They were fast, energetic, work-hard-play-hard bunch of people. I arrived in KK on the 24th of February and was put up in a shared accommodation with at first two other women artists, in an art gallery housed in a three-storey (with an attic) shop house with only a bathroom/toilet to share between us. For many days I was sleeping on a hard springy mattress in a room facing the brutal afternoon sun. I was travelling light and brought few changes of clothes, which I hand-washed almost every day. I didn’t have to cook, as food was aplenty – on the streets, at the markets, in convenience stores (mostly 7-11), cafes, and restaurants. But I did have to buy plenty of bottled water, as I had to rehydrate myself frequently due to the punishing hot and dry ‘late winter’ of the Khorat Plateau. Physically it was a very tough time for my body because I was suffering from a horrible ear infection (for which I was on medication) that caused me to be hard of hearing in the right ear. On top of that, the diet was drastically different from what I was used to in Malaysia– it was meat meat meat, mostly pork or beef, offals, blood curds or sausages in soup or fried, or braised, or grilled, eaten with noodles, rice (often with sticky rice) with plenty of raw vegetables (this I really loved) for breakfast, lunch and dinner. And although it was easy to get coffees (either local or italian-style), I simply couldn’t find a shop to get a cup of black tea with milk sans sugar (“cuppa”). Another adjustment that my aging body had to make was the lingering whiff of marijuana in the air. It relaxed me, which was good for my ear infection! But I also noticed that my wayfinding ability was massively impaired by the ear infection (or maybe it was also due to the marijuana coursing in my blood) because I simply couldn’t orientate myself and reading maps was very arduous. I felt utterly lost, isolated, depressed.
As Khon Kaen sits on a vast expanse of flat land of the famed Khorat Plateau it was strangely beautiful, but the staircases of the shop houses that I visited are very steep. Most buildings are not taller than four storeys, and had seen better days. But since investment is now flowing from the North and the monies from ganja farming, the construction industry is fast picking up pace. Although good city planning was quite evident in the parcelling of lands and linearity of the roads, and the working traffic lights, I found trying to cross the roads, even though motorised vehicles were driven much slower than in Malaysia, extremely tricky. The traffic system is just mind-blowingly difficult to understand. More importantly, not speaking Thai / Isaan was limiting my communication with people around me, especially the artists whom I badly wanted to connect with. The language barrier was breaking me down – and Thai / Isaan is not a language that anyone can pick up easily – in fact, I only managed to (mis)pronounce fewer than ten words (sawadikap, kap koon kap, chai, mai, ha). In the end, I didn’t even make any more effort to learn more, and instead I was enjoying the ‘funny’ way the Thais spoke English with me, and I started to imitate it for my own entertainment. I was also limited by my lack of social media footprint, something that those people did not appreciate nor understood. In my comfortable life in Malaysia, I relied on whatsapp to talk to very close friends (Thais don’t use this application as they have Line), had only one working blog, and used emails for longer missives. The SOE23 organisers, in contrast, used social media to share news on workplans, advertise the goings-on et cetera. Most of the time I had to depend on word-of-mouth of one or two individuals whom relayed the information to me – I have no idea how much accuracy was sacrificed during the translation from Thai to English. I walked everywhere because I didn’t know how to order a grab car or motorcycle, nor use the public transportation of Tuk-tuks, buses or taxis. I covered my recently shaven head with a bandanna under my cap because the sunshine was burning my already tanned skin. Why did I shave my head? To fulfill a long-time curiosity of what it’s like to be bald and how I would look like, or even treated by others. I’d wanted to do it at a temple but my Thai friends advised me against it and I complied mainly because I knew I would not be able to follow the eight strict rules of Buddhist monkhood. So I told people that I was going to do it for fashion and paid a hair salon owner 150Bahts to shave off my salt-and-pepper shortish hair using an electric clipper one hot morning early on in the first week of my stay.
Surrounded by other people’s art // I stumble and fumble // …
I turned to my art, nature and the strengths of strangers to get back on my feet. I drew and wrote down my thoughts on as many things as possible. Walking around the lake did not feel so aimless because everyone was also going round and round. I observed people, the other fauna and the vegetation, the sun and the moon whilst soaking their energy and silent understanding. I ate dinners that I bought from the lakeside street market alone by the lake. I envied the many couples, especially the young shy ones. They all seemed blissfully happy. Throughout my stay I neither imbibed nor smoked weed, all thanks to having to take my ENT meds. I was getting quite sick of having to listen to other people’s choice of music, so whenever they asked me what I liked I quickly told them to play my favourites. And I happily danced to Rod Steward’s Maggie May whenever someone complied. I missed my guitar badly so I went to a jazz bar to listen to a brilliant young guitarist whose singing was kinda poor. I had a mocktail called the midnight flower, which really was super sweet lychee syrup in a cocktail glass.
Somehow, despite of or maybe because of all these madness that was going on inside and around me, I managed to complete my art installation two days prior to the opening day, which was on the 11th of March. I guess it is my wont that whenever I am in survival mode my competitive button simply gets switched on. I was unfazed by the positive remarks on my artwork. Felt irrelevant to what I was really trying to convey and share. It was after all my debut offering to the world – fuck off if you don’t get it! My growth as a creative person was stupendous, and my body was getting strong. I was beginning to jaywalk like a pro and to speak like a normal person, again. But then it was already time to say goodbye and to return to my ordinary life in Petaling Jaya.
ps: I am writing this entry three days after I got back. There’s simply so much to write about and I am still processing the experience so I am not very coherent. But better to record as much as possible whilst things are still fresh in my mind.